This Canadian city is where sea-to-summit adventures, world-class institutions and Michelin-star-worthy meals await around almost every corner. In Vancouver, where the richly diverse food scene finally earned its own Michelin Guide in 2022, stars now glint invitingly outside a growing number of fine-dining landmarks.
Granville Island
DAY ONE
Start your first day of exploration on Granville Island, with hungry gulls circling overhead. Once an oily tangle of industrial machine shops and warehouses, the peninsula is now home to Granville Island Public Market, one of the finest food markets in North America. Take your time wandering the lively maze of alleyways, where artisan bakers, charcuterie counters, chocolatiers and cheesemongers jostle in a space that joyfully blurs the line between working market and community gathering place.
Start with a warm, sesame-crusted bagel from Siegel’s, then head to Benton Brothers Fine Cheese for a tasting plate of Salt Spring Island cow’s milk varieties. Seafood is essential here, so sample the smoked maple candied salmon from Longliner Seafoods, or wrap your fingers around a steaming cup of bouillabaisse from The Stock Market, swimming with prawns and flakes of wild Pacific cod. The market is open year-round.
Back on the mainland, follow the curve of False Creek west to Stanley Park, Vancouver’s 1,000-acre urban sanctuary. Larger than New York’s Central Park, the peninsula is steeped in Coast Salish history and blanketed in old-growth rainforest. It’s also home to the Seawall, the world’s longest uninterrupted waterfront path. The 5.5-mile loop inside Stanley Park hugs the coastline and passes beaches, a lighthouse, play areas and forest trails covered in moss. It’s the perfect spot for a restorative afternoon stroll, with watery views and a light coastal breeze to blow away the cobwebs. To pick up the pace, hop on a bike from one of the clusters of rental shops just outside the park entrance on Denman Street. Local favorites like Spokes Bicycle Rentals and Yes Cycle offer everything from zippy e-bikes to tandems built for two.
Whichever mode you choose, take a moment to pause and watch the waves crash against Siwash Rock, a 32-million-year-old sea stack drenched in local mythology. At roughly the halfway point, pit stop at The Teahouse in Stanley Park, a former military garrison turned cozy dining room with sweeping ocean vistas. Order a crisp glass of Cedar Creek pinot gris, produced here in British Columbia, and soak up the scenery from the wooden patio overlooking English Bay.
Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden
Those seeking a dash of adventure should then head into the park’s interior, where the city fades away beneath a hush of Douglas fir and western red cedar. Some trees soar as high as wind turbines, their rustling canopy casting dappled light across the bed of ferns below. Breathe it all in, then loop back along the eastern edge to the Totem poles at Brockton Point. These nine poles, carved by First Nations artists from across British Columbia, remain one of the province’s most visited cultural landmarks, and are a striking reminder of the land’s Indigenous roots. Having worked up an appetite, head next into Chinatown, just east of Downtown and one of the oldest and largest historic Chinatowns in North America.
In a city known for its outdoorsy ethos and early-to-bed tendencies, it’s often said that Vancouver wears its nightlife with a bit more restraint than other global cities. But dig a little deeper, and pockets like Chinatown reveal a plethora of low-key lounges and characterful bars. Vancouver’s contemporary cocktail scene can be traced to The Keefer Bar in Chinatown. When it opened in 2010, the moody, apothecary-themed venue helped usher in a new era of nightlife. It quickly earned cult status for its drinks list and dramatic interior — think red velvet banquettes, vintage medicine cabinets and lighting fashioned from glass test tubes. Time your visit for happy hour, from 4 to 6 p.m., when dim sum and bar snacks are half-price. The drinks here are as carefully composed as the decor, with a cocktail list that reads like a page torn from an Old-World dispensary. Drawing on Chinese herbal traditions and West Coast botanicals, the mixologists balance medicinal flavors with a surprisingly delicate touch. Cocktails feature ingredients like chrysanthemum flower, yuzu citrus, oolong tea and Nin Jiom, a traditional herbal syrup more commonly used for sore throats.
There’s no shortage of bold statements sliding across the mirrored bar, including the notorious Durian Colada. This daring little number stars baijiu — the strong, often polarizing Chinese spirit — and a punchy whiff of durian, the famously funky Southeast Asian fruit. Pair it with a plate of siu mai: plump, steaming dumplings filled with pork or shrimp, wrapped in delicate parcels that arrive like tasty little gifts.
Gastown steam clock
DAY TWO
Start your morning in Gastown. This cobblestone neighborhood is the oldest in the city, founded in 1867 by a British sailor who opened the area’s first saloon. The streets are still lined with handsome 19th-century brick buildings, though these days they mostly house boutiques, galleries and speakeasy-style bars.
Fuel up on coffee and a London fog croissant — infused with Earl Grey tea — at Nemesis Coffee. Nearby, the Centre of International Contemporary Art (CICA) is a slick gallery showcasing young artists, with regular talks and creative workshops. Just steps away is the Steam Clock, a unique, steam-powered timepiece built in 1977.
Every 15 minutes, it theatrically lets out a whistling puff to power the chimes. It’s a quick stroll to the waterfront, where Miku Restaurant has standout aburi (flame seared) sushi. The lunchtime Shokai menus are good options for first-timers: grazing plates featuring 10 rolls, appetizers and miso soup. Nearby, the Marine Building is an art deco masterpiece that, at the time of its 1930 opening, was the city’s tallest skyscraper. It’s free to pop into the lobby to admire the intricate, maritime-inspired stained glass windows and doorways etched with gold.
Hungry for another hit of culture? The spacious Vancouver Art Gallery showcases international and Canadian artists, with a growing collection of First Nations works. As the afternoon sun dips, make your way to Mount Pleasant for dinner. This residential neighborhood is home two Michelin-starred restaurants: Published on Main and Burdock & Co. Venture inside the former’s relaxed, Nordic-style dining room to feast on an evolving menu of dishes like lettuce pie with a dollop of caviar. Chef Gus Stieffenhofer-Brandson takes full advantage of Vancouver’s prime location, foraging in nearby forests for ingredients like wild mushrooms, which he arranges on the plate like edible art. Mount Pleasant Vintage & Provisions is a stylish spot for a nightcap, where cocktails are poured inside a revamped warehouse.
Capilano Suspension Bridge
DAY THREE
Vancouver’s laid-back vibe begs you to slow down, almost as if the metropolis itself has just emerged, salty-haired and healthy, from a kayaking session followed by a quick espresso run. You can do both, and more, at Kitsilano Beach — or Kits Beach — on the city’s west side. Once a hippie haven during the Summer of Love, Kitsilano evolved into one of Vancouver’s most desirable areas, brimming with cool coffee shops, yoga studios and an array of vegetarian restaurants. Swing by the recently opened Kits Beach Coffee for a mellow chai to kick-start the day. Alternatively, stop for a passion fruit mochi donut and brown butter espresso at Their There, a minimalist corner cafe with some seriously tempting pastries.
Kitsilano is edged by a gentle curve of sand, offering fine views of English Bay and the North Shore Mountains. Early morning is the sweet spot here, before volleyball games kick off and sunbathers claim their spots. If the ocean feels too chilly, nearby Kitsilano Pool — a heated, open-air saltwater pool nearly three times Olympic length — welcomes visitors from May to September. In warmer months, Vancouver Water Adventures rents out kayaks and paddleboards if you want to explore the coastline. Set back a few blocks from the beach, Fable Kitchen has been serving celebrated farm-to-table food for over a decade. Flying out of the silver hatch are brunch classics such as hollandaise-slicked eggs Benedict, pulled-pork johnnycakes and challah French toast.
One of Vancouver’s most compelling traits is how effortlessly the city slips into wilderness. Heed the call of the mountains with a half-hour road trip to Capilano Suspension Bridge Park for a taste of alpine escapism within the city limits. The 450-foot bridge sways gently above the Capilano River, and from November to January, it becomes the centerpiece of Canyon Lights, a festive celebration of twinkling lights. Wander through Treetops Adventure, a series of wooden walkways suspended between centuries-old firs, or test your nerves on the glass-bottomed Cliffwalk path. Just a short bus ride away, Grouse Mountain offers a snow-dusted retreat. As daylight fades, the slopes open for night skiing and the Munday Alpine Snowshoe Park comes alive under the stars. A new eight-person gondola whisks visitors up the mountain. Cap off the evening at The Observatory, a mountaintop chalet with majestic views of the city far below. Try the Pacific halibut, served with a bright green chimichurri, a fitting farewell to the Pacific Northwest. When you’re ready, the aerial tramway waits to descend 3,700 feet, back to Vancouver’s waterfront and into the buzz of city life.
Writer: Zoey Goto
