Palm Springs is a desert oasis that’s been attracting visitors for over a century. The city in Southern California is the “it” destination for the famous and anyone else seeking a laid-back, retro-style getaway full of fun and fresh air. Check out our guide to the perfect three-day weekend in Palm Springs.
Tramway Gas Station
DAY1
In the early 1900s, the native Agua Caliente Band of Cahuilla Indians became the first to tap into the town’s tourism potential by opening the area’s first official wellness resort. However, the explosive growth of Palm Springs began in the 1920s when this small town, located two hours from the glitz and glam of Los Angeles, became a favorite escape for Hollywood’s film stars.
For intimate access to one of Palm Springs’ most celebrated mid-century buildings, check into the Parker Palm Springs. Originally opened in 1965 as a Holiday Inn, this property was soon purchased by Hollywood actor Gene Autry and quickly became a hotspot for Southern California baseball players — that’s until media mogul Merv Griffin scooped it up in the 1980s, turning it into a private playground for Hollywood’s most famous faces. This year, it celebrates two decades as a 144-room luxury boutique with design refreshes by Jonathan Adler. Soak in its impeccable style with lunch at Norma’s, where an all-day breakfast menu tempts alongside French inspired plates like the Nicoise salad with iceberg lettuce, tuna, green beans and hardboiled egg, and croque Manhattan, a bagel bottomed twist on the croque madame.
After lunch, beat the midday heat with a trip on the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway. Here, at a mile-and-a-half above the ground, the temperature drops to a refreshing 86 degrees (you might even need a light jacket). As you glide up along the rocky Chino Canyon cliff edge toward the Mount San Jacinto Mountain State Park and Wilderness Area, take advantage of your 360-degree rotating trolley to gain a bird’s-eye appreciation of the landscape and layout of Palm Springs. On a clear day, it’s even possible to spot Las Vegas in the distance. For those visiting during winter, strap on snowshoes for a memorable jaunt through the desert.
Back on ground level, make a pit stop at the old Tramway Gas Station. Originally designed and built by Albert Frey in 1965, this classic example of modernist architecture now serves as the Palm Springs Visitors Center and doubles as a landmark and a place to load up on maps directing you to the city’s treasure trove of vintage stores, celebrity homes and nature trails.
Consider a pedal through downtown Palm Springs to pass through the multiple eras of celebrity homes in the Old Las Palmas neighborhood, the Beverly Hills of Palm Springs. Or, take a self-guided tour of the Upper Design District’s trendy boutiques, vintage stores and one of the town’s two Shag Store locations, home of the whimsical midcentury-styled prints and merch from local artist Josh Agle. BIKE Palm Springs Rentals & Tours offers half-day and full-day rentals of e-bikes and traditional pedal pushers (be sure to reserve your chosen bike at least 72 hours in advance).
Finish your first day with dinner at Sandfish Sushi and Whiskey for a delicious downtown Palm Springs take on Japanese cuisine featuring dishes like fried cauliflower bao buns with kimchi, sushi rolls with microgreens and mango, and stuffed squash blossoms. Cap off the night down the street with a trip through time courtesy of era-themed cocktails at Truss & Twine.
Poolside in Palm Springs
DAY 2
Get the heart pumping with a morning hike through Indian Canyons or Tahquitz Canyon, the ancestral lands of the Agua Caliente Band of Cahuilla Indians. A variety of trails covers all skill levels and offers breathtaking scenery for minimal effort. Choose from two popular easy hikes: the one-mile Andreas Canyon and two-mile Palm Canyon trails. The trails are home to the world’s two largest reserves of California fan palms, the only native palm species in the state. These flowering evergreen trees can grow up to 66 feet tall and 20 feet wide. Work up an appetite while visiting waterfalls, passing unique rock formations and spotting ancient rock art.
The LGBTQ+ scene in Palm Springs is huge, and if your trip lands on a Friday, Saturday or Sunday, the PS Drag Brunch is a fantastically fun way to experience your first meal of the day. The food is good, but the show is what makes the trip worthwhile. Settle in for three hours of rowdy performances from the top drag queens in town. Afterward, rest and recover with one of the most popular Palm Springs pastimes: lounging by the pool. No pool? No problem. Day passes are available at most resorts and top hotels, so treat yourself — or walk off brunch with a stroll through the Moorten Botanical Garden, home to an acre of desert flora organized by their originating geographical biomes around the world.
Keep the traditional Palm Springs activities flowing with an afternoon round of golf at one of the best golf resorts in the country, La Quinta Resort & Club. Tee off on one of the three Pete Dye-designed courses (including the world-renowned 72-par Stadium Course), an Audubon-certified Greg Norman course and the Jack Nicklaus Tournament Course. Each has a PGA WEST Academy on site to help you get into the swing of things. Or, just go for the surefire hole-in-one and book in at the Spa La Quinta, where Thai massage, cryotherapy, facials and wine-based treatments are all on the menu.
Come evening, dive into Palm Springs’ escapist vibe and say cheers to mid-century tiki culture at Bootlegger Tiki, a lively tropical bar in the same space as the original Don the Beachcomber restaurant. However, be sure to reserve a table well in advance — it’s virtually impossible to walk in and get one. Stay in character with dinner at The Tropicale, a supper club-inspired restaurant that serves up flavorful dishes like carne asada and miso-glazed salmon.
Joshua Tree National Park
DAY 3
Fuel up for the last day with a California-style breakfast from Palm Greens Cafe, a longtime favorite joint for vegan, gluten-free and organic dishes like hummus avocado toast, huevos rancheros and vegan biscuits and gravy. After breakfast, embark on a celebrity homes tour — a must for design lovers and fame followers alike. Many homes — like Frank Sinatra’s Twin Palms Estate, Elvis’ Honeymoon Hideaway and the Liberace Estate — are of significant importance in terms of their architecture and history. For modernism diehards, twice a year, in February and October, Palm Springs hosts Modernism Week, a celebration of the architectural and design heritage of the city and nearby areas with special tours and talks.
After the tour, stroll down the Walk of the Stars to see how many names you recognize before walking a few blocks to enjoy lunch at Sherman’s Deli, a city stronghold since the 1950s. This kosher-style deli has borne witness to the many eras of Palm Springs, starting with its mid-century heydays and frequent famous visitors. Come here for those hard-to-find East Coast diner specialties like corned beef hash, bagel and lox, borscht and matzo ball soup.
Continue your day with a quick trip 15 minutes out of town to Azure Palm Hot Springs Resort & Day Spa Oasis to reap the beauty and health benefits of soaking in the natural hot springs. This resort is known for its exceptionally hot mineral-rich waters that bubble up directly from the ground at a piping hot 174 degrees, before flowing through to the spa’s pools and private tubs. High concentrations of magnesium, lithium, calcium, phosphorus and other minerals are said to improve skin texture, relax muscles and relieve stress. Book an Oasis Day pass for full access to the mineral waters or choose a classic body treatment that includes a hot spring soak.
For unique luxury labels finds like Gaultier, Hermes and Gucci, head to Mitchells Palm Springs on South Indian Canyon Drive. If you’re interested in the timeless style of celebrity homes, head to Market Market, a 40,000-square-foot vintage market stuffed with top furniture, clothing, accessories and housewares. Then, check out the seasonal, monthly Vintage Market for an almost overwhelming selection of authentic merchandise. After, it’s time to board a chartered flight. Welcome to PS Air, a retro flight experience that takes guests back in time without ever leaving the runway. This aviation-themed speakeasy serves up a kitschy dinner and cocktail experience aboard a real plane.
For a more traditional last meal, head to Mr. Lyons Steakhouse. On the menu are classics like shrimp cocktail, caviar, bone marrow, French onion soup, prime rib, beef wellington and key lime pie. For the final act — weather permitting — embark on a night tour of Joshua Tree National Park, the perfect place to marvel at the stars. The park spans almost 800,000 acres across the higher Mojave Desert and the lower Colorado Desert and has one of the darkest night skies in Southern California. In 2017, it was designated an International Dark Sky Park.
By Katherine Alex Beaven
