At the crossroads of the Pacific Ocean and the Caribbean Sea, the vibrant and prosperous capital of Panama is home to colonial ruins, towering skyscrapers and colorful food markets. It might be best known for its canal, but Panama City is more than just a crossing — it’s a convergence of influences that span the Americas and beyond.
At first glance, the city presents its high-end shopping malls, office towers and apartment buildings along a modern superhighway, sited to maximize the ocean views. Dominating the skyline is F&F Tower, known as “the screw.” The striking geometric design of green glass incorporates 53 floors of office space twisted into a helix around a central axis. In contrast to this is Panama Viejo, a UNESCO World Heritage Site home to the remnant of the original city. It’s here that Welsh privateer Henry Morgan’s expedition, known as the Sack of Panama, took place in January 1671. Today, you’ll find his swashbuckling image on the label of the popular spiced rum brand, Captain Morgan.
The population of Panama represents an array of ethnicities, mainly thanks to waves of immigrants drawn to jobs created during the canal’s construction. People from Jamaica, Barbados and Trinidad made up the bulk of the workforce, many of whom stayed and settled here. Indigenous communities like Ngäbe, Bokota, Guna, Buglé and Emberá comprise about 13% of the nation’s population of over 4 million.
Getting to Panama City is easier than ever, with daily non-stop flights from airports across the Americas. Its national carrier, Copa Airlines, has a generous stopover program allowing passengers to visit Panama for up to seven days, with a stop allowed in each direction. Here’s how to make the most of this exciting Central American metropolis.
Panama Canal
CULTURE
Dubbed one of the modern wonders of the world, the Panama Canal is a must-see. Visitors are welcomed at Miraflores Locks, the oldest of the three locks now in use. Via engaging exhibits and an outdoor viewing platform, you can delve into the operational intricacies of this feat of engineering that allows ships to travel uphill across the isthmus and smooths out the imbalance in sea level between the canal’s Pacific Ocean and Caribbean Sea entrances.
Like a thread through the proverbial eye of the needle, megaships, cruise liners and personal watercraft rise and fall with varying water levels to pass through an opening only 110 feet wide. For a comprehensive experience, consider a full-day Canal Zone tour that examines the breadth of operations and landmarks of the area.
Situated on the Amador Causeway, at the Pacific entrance to the canal, the Biomuseo is a Smithsonian-affiliate museum designed by renowned architect Frank Gehry, who intended it to illustrate the geological and environmental narrative of the area over millions of years in a blend of art and science. With Gehry-signature metal panels covering the exterior, the colorful building is hard to miss.
The historic district of Casco Viejo, also part of the UNESCO site, is a captivating blend of Spanish and French influences, with wrought-iron balconies overlooking cobblestone streets and timeworn churches. According to legend, Iglesia San José’s golden altar was painted black by a quick-witted priest in order to save it from Henry Morgan’s band of pillagers. Don’t forget to pause for a photo under the stone archway at nearby Arco Chato, the remains of a church built by Dominican friars. The Metropolitan Cathedral and its adjacent plaza offer a shady spot for a rest and a raspado — flavored shaved ice sold from vendor carts.
Handicrafts from Indigenous artisans as well as young, upcoming artists are displayed in gallery windows throughout Casco Viejo. Galeria de Arte Indigena offers an extensive collection of embroidered cloth, woven baskets and figures carved from tagua palm seeds that make for the ideal souvenir.
Ceviche
FOOD
Casco Viejo is the heart of Panama City’s gastronomy scene. Start the day with a Geisha coffee and a steamed tamale wrapped in a banana leaf at Casa Sucre Coffeehouse. Panama’s Geisha coffee beans are an aromatic varietal grown at altitudes of over 5,000 feet and are coveted by aficionados. Devote half a day to the local food scene with a private culinary tour that delves into flavors like organic chocolate, small batch rum, craft beer and, of course, coffee.
A visit to the Mercado de Mariscos, a fish and seafood market on the waterfront, is a must. Stroll among the aisles stocked with yellowfin tuna, black marlin, Pacific sailfish, dorado, roosterfish, wahoo and amberjack — all freshly caught and sold at reasonable prices. For a snack, try a cup of shrimp or seabass ceviche, or go big with a platter of fried fish served with rice or French fries.
Cantina del Tigre, or Tiger’s Canteen, was named one of Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants in 2023. Located in the San Francisco neighborhood on the east side of the city, it features a spacious outdoor patio as well as indoor seating. Chef Fulvio Miranda has created an updated menu of Panamanian flavors, which relies heavily on the abundance of local fish. Here, try the freshly chopped ceviche, or, for vegan visitors, the spiced lychee fruit served with crispy plantain chips is a great option. Fried items include octopus croquettes and fish empanadas stuffed with an inspired concoction of fish, curry and cheese. The arroz rojo (red rice) is cooked in a fish broth and accented with shrimp, and the Afro fried fish arrives in a blazing orange curry sauce of mustard, onion and acevichado peppers — both are excellent choices.
Rooftop bars are plentiful across the city — especially in Casco Viejo. Cap off the night at Arcano, a peacock-hued, password-protected speakeasy with a private jewel box terrace overlooking the city lights. Order an El Diablo cocktail, a blend of 15-year-old Abuelo Oloroso rum and hibiscus syrup — if only for the theatrical tableside presentation in a smoke-filled glass box.
Panama Hats
FASHION
Panama hats were popularized by President Theodore Roosevelt during his visit to the Panama Canal Zone in 1906. The hat he wore while inspecting construction was actually an Ecuadorian model, but the American press didn’t fact check their assumption, thus we have the “Panama hat.” The hat traditionally worn by Panamanian laborers to protect themselves from the sun is called a pintao, made from Carludovica palmata plant fibers. During cultural performances, dances and festivals, this is the accessory that tops off typical folk costumes. The most carefully woven hats command prices in the thousands of dollars. Visit El Guayacano hat shop in Calle 1 of Casco Viejo for the finest examples and a glass-encased exhibit illustrating the weaving steps in various stages.
Classic four-pocket guayabera shirts are tailored from refined cotton or linen. Their origin story is murky — with Cuba holding a strong claim thanks to the legend of a seamstress who added large patch pockets to her husband’s shirt to better carry guavas. Head for Portomar on a corner of Avenida A in Casco Viejo for a wide selection of elegant shirts in white and pastel shades that pack easily into a carry-on bag.
Casco Viejo, the historic district of Panama City
HOTELS
The crown jewel of the old quarter is the Sofitel Legend Casco Viejo, included in Travel + Leisure’s 2024 list of the 100 best hotels in the world. Rebuilt from the ruins of the original headquarters of the Club Unión of Panama, the lavish 159-room waterfront property was the premier address for a constellation of mid-century guests including Charles Lindbergh, Albert Einstein, Helen Keller and Queen Elizabeth II. Daniel Craig filmed 2008’s Quantum of Solace here, when it acted as a stand-in for Bolivia.
Breakfast on the terrace is taken beneath a canopy of pink and purple bougainvillea. Try the Panamanian breakfast, which includes scrambled eggs with cilantro, beef carimañola (stuffed cassava), chicken tamales, warmed flaky pastries and sliced tropical fruit. Lattes are rich and flavorful thanks to the hotel’s custom coffee blend made by family-owned producer, Santos Café. Add in the refreshing spa and infinity pool overlooking the ocean and you get a true five-star experience.
Over in the city center, the Bristol Panama is a must for art lovers, with over 100 works by Latin American artists on display. Dine at its award-winning Salsipuedes restaurant, where the menu showcases the wide array of flavors that are now a part of Panamanian cuisine: think Caribbean yellow curry with grilled chicken and mushrooms, tacos de pato with duck confit, mango chutney and chicharron. Take a dip in the sleek rooftop pool at sunset for tremendous skyline views.
Emberá Quera settlement
EXCURSION
About an hour’s drive from the city center, explore Emberá Quera, an Indigenous community living according to generations of tradition. Board a piragua dugout canoe, captained by members of the village, and glide along the Chagres River while keeping an eye out for monkeys and exotic birds. This unique stop consists of a campus of circular, thatch-roofed, open-air structures located in Chagres National Park and protected in a manner comparable to American Indian reservations.
In the Ceremonial House, the cacique (village chief) introduces himself and his family, then describes the flow of their days — detailing their heritage, customs and beliefs. After taking questions, the chief invites guests to participate in festive storytelling dances set to the soundtrack of their harmonious music using instruments like flutes, drums and maracas.
Here, Emberá women weave chunga palm fibers into handicrafts as a means of supporting their community so they can buy supplies like cooking oil and diesel for the piraguas. Some artisans choose to reflect their immediate environment by creating weavings with the faces of monkeys, toucans or sloths. Others fashion plates, bowls and serving vessels with geometric patterns and use natural dyes from local seeds and flowers to enhance their designs. Masks, baskets and purses are common handmade souvenirs.
Lunch is representative of local fare: fresh fish line-caught from the nearby river and fried over an open fire, as well as tropical fruit and patacones (fried green plantain patties). If the mood strikes, take part in a symbolic ritual of the Emberá by getting a temporary tattoo. Men, women and children of the village decorate their faces, arms and legs with body painting using natural dyes made of plants and charcoal. Don’t worry — it’ll wash off in a few weeks.
